#10 - Surf Bali!

Ever since I started surfing in high school all I’ve heard about are boat trips to the Maldives, surf safaris to South Africa, and going loco in Indo. After all these years of fantasizing I finally got to cut my chops here in Bali.

And it's awesome.

I rented a sweet little phish (it was the owner's personal board and I had to chat him up to rent it) from a shop across the street from my weird little hotel and spent the day getting smile lines sunburnt onto my face. The conditions were so perfect for me it was ridiculous – 3-6 ft, steady offshore wind, nice mushy shoulder take-offs followed by some straight down the line pumping rights. It was tailor made for me, since I like some size but I hate steep hollow take-offs.

The locals and crowds were mellow. Nothing agro – if you were in position you got the wave – no snaking. I saw a few questionable paddles, but hey that’s just good surfing. I also somehow lucked into the wave of the day.

This amazing right came out of nowhere, a foot bigger than the back sets and wedged just in between the two peaks that had been breaking all day on my left and my right. It was ridiculous. I saw heaps of locals from 20 meters away frantically paddling to out position me, but I was centered right on it with no one around. I paddled, got heaps of spray in my face from the offshore wind and whooped my way down the line with a few nice pumps and a beefy kickout.

I’m aware I sounded retarded right now, but I don’t care. You know why? Cuz I’m surfing in Bali right now and you’re not. I’m gonna sound like an even bigger tool tomorrow!

(Sorry I don't have any photos of me surfing - I'm traveling by myself and I'm not taking my sweet camera to the beach to have it jacked!)